Pair for tomorrow

Played in the fire a little this morning. Made these up for a horse I am doing in the morning. Although they came to size, I need to work on either my fuller or punch, or both, as the nail holes are bleeding into the inside edge of the crease, they are also not quite deep enough, and some of them are racked a little...and whatever else you see that needs improvement. Will be nice to have my coke forge done so I can get out of the gas.

Nice!

what section was it John?

Someone walk me through posting photos on this site? Could figure it out on horseshoes, but can't find the browse button to get them out of my files or whatever ya callem?? Took some interesting stuff today, guess I can sent them to facebook easier??

Hey Gary!

after you put your print in the box, below the print box, it says post reply or upload a file or more options. click up load a file and it goes right to your computer to let you select the pictures you want to add to your post.

I'd be happy with them! Nice work.

Thanks Kim and Gary. Always a lot of room for improvement here.

It was 14 inches of 5/16 x 3/4.

Made another pair for the hinds for the same horse tomorrow...although I am thinking they might be a little big even though they came to size on the ruler. These are shoes for the next WCB contest and I think they might help the horse tomorrow. Even though I'm not going to the contest, I figured I'd give them a go. This was 12.5 inches of 3/8 x 3/4. I put 3/4 inch into each heel. A LOT of room for improvement on these also. They end up 3/8 at the toe and 1/2 at the heel.

What's the idea behind fullering the toe and plain stamping the branches? Is it to save bumping up the toe?

what size was he around 4 3/4"

I would assume the fullered toe is for traction and the plain stamped branches are to allow the foot to twist a little easier...not sure what the original intent was. The horse I hope they fit tomorrow has a bit of lateral motion prior to lift and it has less than ideal wall integrity. Hopefully, the plain stamped sides will be a little more friendly to the wall as it is growing out. Tomorrow will be 2 months I have been doing the horse (once every 4 weeks) and it had about 5 months worth of flares on the lateral sides.

I probably need to be taught a better system of measurement, but I just pull a soft measuring tape from heel to heel after trimming. I cut 2 inches less for a plain stamp shoe and 2.5 inches less for a 3/4 fullered shoe...unless I bump the toe, then I just cut 2 inches less also. Most horses I see usually average about 1/2 inch smaller on hind than the fronts and the fronts on this horse measured 13.5 inches heel to heel. I am hoping the hinds fall around 13 inches as that is what these shoes measure. How do you measure? Thanks!

Alright, just need to email them to myself off my phone? Thanks

Nice shoes Scruggs... I am having trouble making that shoe without racking it... did you fuller in the straight and if so how far from center did you mark?

Tapatalk and you can just upload from the phone.

I didn't really mark anything. I figured I would bump 3/4" into each heel/side so I took my initial 12.5" bumped one side, then the other and ended with 11". After that, I put a toe bend in it but tried not to put it right in the middle. I used the longer side as my lateral and the shorter as the medial after I drew it down/sweetened it up a little. Then I put the heels on each branch, turned both branches, and repositioned the toe a little closer to where I wanted it. Once I got the shoe blank looking like a decent hind shape, then I marked the fullering. To mark the fullering I put a straight edge across the toe and pulled it back until it looked close to about 3/8" of daylight behind the inside of the toe bend. (I started with about 1/4" but that looked like it would put the toe nails too far forward so I backed it up about another 1/8") Fullered the toe and punched the shoe. Other than measuring for cutting the stock and measuring in the straight to be sure I put 3/4" into each heel, the only other measurement I took was wrapping a tape around it when I was done to see if it pulled 13".

Chad,
I am certainly not a good shoemaker, nor one to be giving advice about it, but I can tell you that marking a shoe prior to putting it in the fire is making a commitment. Craig told me one time that the longer you can wait to make commitments on shoes the better. This shoe is a good example of that. If you put markings on the shoe and as you are building it, it doesn't come out exactly like you planned (ie forged a little more on one side or the other) you then have the choice with going ahead with your marks and having the shoe, fullering, nail holes, whatever, looking racked or if you ignore those marks, you stand the chance of seeing them...which is pretty much like waving a flag saying "look where I didn't do what I wanted to". If you try to mark the fullering in the straight, that shoe better be perfectly forged on both sides just how you want it, or it is going to look racked. It is like trying to mark fullering on a straight bar shoe right after you turn your toe bend...probably going to bite you in the butt unless you can put two identical hockey sticks on the end of each branch and get the weld centered up.

Well did you get that horse shod John?

I did. Lf was a good 1/2" smaller than Rf and still a little high on the lateral side but landing much better now. Will also have to make adjustments for hinds next time. Both were about 1/4" long per branch. Here is what I was working with and what worked out.

Looks like you had a bit of altering to do on the bar shoe John

Scruggs made me a pair of straight bar hinds; suspensory tear, they bolted up. Told him the numbers and Wal'la! he can be so critical of himself;WTF!

John is no doubt a top hand and a breath of fresh air to the forum
i just hate having to alter bar shoes after making them
i look forward to tuneing in on johns posts
as i like also the way he comes accross on the forum