Rather than kind of derail the RSI thread, I thought to start this thread, because it's an important topic, and I'd like to get some more good thoughts and opinions/tips. What is your preferred anvil height and why? What are the advantages and disadvantages both physically and to your work? This makes sense to me geometrically. If the face of the anvil is knuckle height with your hand hanging straight down, when you stand away from the anvil the hammer would not be able to land flat with a straight wrist and arm because of the arc away from your hips the hand would make when moved away from your body. The further away you stand, the higher the face of the anvil would have to be to be at the correct height. I also prefer that my hammer strike ends with my elbow not locked. Ending with a straighter elbow might be more powerful, but is also harder on the elbow. My biggest challenge is accuracy, not power. Regards
I use my stall jack a lot and it's only 1 foot off the ground ........ but seriously when I use my anvil for the hot shoeing and more complicated shoeing I find that my anvil to be a hand height. if there all day or practicing in the forge . I have good luck with that; and also have to find a good spot I can lower my truck into a ditch; I have an extendo bed; pull out just enough, and it's all set up; if it is just 1 shoe or fronts; I can shape without moving my anvil off, swing out forge and can do it at elbow height hot; if in a hurry. it lots in one place; then it all comes out. it's neat how I have it set up.
It's a good topic rick ..I have always heard and been told knuckle high with arm straight down and forced myself to this way for a long time because I was always told this is how you do it..but I always would hurt in my lower back and would find myself bending at the knees to help with the hurting..a few years back for some reason a anvil I was swinging on as a fast hurry thing and not setting up I found I liked it so I changed how high I used mine... Mines at about elbow high and I found it so much easier on the back ..but that's me ..I forced myself to do it like others just because I quess someone said its the right way..and still get the ol ..hey man you need to lower ur anvil all the time.. when I ask why I always get the same ol thing..because its to high ..I say who says its to high ..everyone ..who's everyone ...I'm the one working on it ..it seems there are a whole boat load of do it like you was told rules in Shoeing..monkey see monkey do..I just don't get all the rules.. the only draw back I found is one time my hammer missed and I was leaning over and it bounced back up and black my eye... Of course I got the ol ur anvil is to high ... I think it was just dumbness on my part nothing more..
I raised mine up an inch or so after a few years. I go with the adjustable fingers, hands, elbows, arms, shoulders, knees, and back method to hit the object on the anvil where I want to. Most shoes I use are 5/16". If I'm making 1/4" sliders or 1/2" drafts do I move the anvil up or down?
I think you can with a flat hammer face on a wide range of anvil heights, even when using a fuller or some other tool, just be standing closer or farther from the anvil. I'm thinking I should remember this so that I can mostly strike with a somewhat bent elbow, and not an overly bent wrist. Tell me if I'm wrong: Straight elbow = elbow stress. Bent wrist = wrist strain. Elbow out to the side = shoulder stress. Not to mention maintaining consistency in your swing. Regards
I find this is usually true with boots, too. So you don't really need the anvil. You could just use your anvil stand to sit on when you trim. I hear this a California thing. Regards
