Glue Ons

Discussion in 'General Discussions' started by Cody Gilreath, Sep 2, 2012.

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    Cody Gilreath Member

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    Where can I find fiberglass to mix with the acrylic?


    Cody Gilreath, CF

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    travis dupree reed Active Member

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    Home depot cody ...its over by the paint area ..comes in a bag pretty cheap If we are talking about the same thing
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    Cody Gilreath Member

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    Ok, thanks Travis I'll check it out.


    Cody Gilreath, CF

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    Cody Gilreath Member

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    Could some people post pics of their glue on shoes


    Cody Gilreath, CF

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    Draftshoer Active Member

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    No pictures but all my glue ons are done with vettec. Most of the time I use the super fast because I find it to hard to keep a horse still long enough for the standard adhere to set up enough to keep the shoe from moving. I don't have any problems with losing shoes with this method.
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    Tom Bloomer Well-Known Member

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    Cody,

    You can buy 1lb of chopped fiberglass from Raka for a lot less than buying cloth from a building supply house. AND it's already chopped so you don't have to "handle it" to cut it up into pieces. Just mix a pinch of it into your PMMA and you're ready to go.

    http://store.raka.com/choppedglassstrand-14in-16oz.aspx

    If you're mixing in a Dixie cup, a pound of this stuff will do about 100 glue jobs - ~96 teaspoons. Factor that into how much you buy. You don't want to fill your mix with more than about 20-25% volume with chopped glass as the fiber adds a lot of surface area and soaks up a lot of glue.

    Raka also sells chopped carbon strands, but I wouldn't recommend that as a filler in this particular application.

    They also sell various composite fabrics, epoxy (their own formulations), and marine coatings.

    If you talk to Larry, tell him I said hi.
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    Tom Bloomer Well-Known Member

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    This one is filled with the chopped glass from Raka. Not so much "glued" as molded to the foot then high nailed to get some wall.

    P1010204.JPG
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    Cody Gilreath Member

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    Perfect Tom, thanks



    Cody Gilreath, CF

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    Steve Marshall Member

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    Cody I dont do too many but last year I had client with a foal that we tried some sigafoos on. Guy had a tendonectomy in the end and now 6 months later he almost looks normal, Sigafoo make a nice glue on, used equilox. Rick Talbert was the guru for me on these. He does a lot of glue on. He and one of our local vets held a clinic on it. Well worth the time.
    [IMG]
    [IMG]
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    Cody Gilreath Member

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    Looks good, thank you Steve


    Cody Gilreath, CF

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    Cody Gilreath Member

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    Maybe Rick will chime in here and post some pics too


    Cody Gilreath, CF

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    Cody Gilreath Member

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    ImageUploadedByTapatalk1346761948.179041.jpg

    Here is my recent efforts. Just have to wait and see if it holds up. Steel shoe with adhere.


    Cody Gilreath, CF

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    Steve Marshall Member

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    Aluminum works best. You don't get the rust between the shoe and the glue pushing in opposite directions. Also they generally have a wider web.
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    Mr. Perry Active Member

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    Qrt missin'. Why not punch a nail in the toe and shoe? Cut the clip move it and move on? I hate acrylics and polymers. I will do a "glue"; rarely. When you begin with a mess and "patch", one is given a mess the next set. Hole is still there.....
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    Steve Marshall Member

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    Mr Perry there is a time and a place for glue ons. As with everything it depends. Like the foal I posted you just cant drive a nail. I will sometimes have a Reiner who needs the shoe set foward to artificially lower the angle. I will equilox the toe and blend in. A, to support-ish and B, to make it look nice.
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    Cody Gilreath Member

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    Steve, I had heard that aluminum is better to use. This is my horse and I was just gluing for the experience because I had never had a need for it. Because its my horse who is my pasture lab rat, one foot is glued steel with adhere, the other foot is glued aluminum with equilox. No benefit other than needing the experience.

    Jaye, nothing was missing on this horse. He has near perfect size 1 feet. He's good to shoe, terrible to ride so I practice stuff on him before taking it to market (my clients).


    Cody Gilreath, CF

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    Tom Bloomer Well-Known Member

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    PMMA adhesives are somewhat acidic. The acid etches the aluminum at the microscopic level and creates a good chemical bond. This is why silicone adhesive/caulk sticks so well to aluminum - it contains acetic acid (smells like vinegar) . . .

    To get a really good bond with steel (which is also more noble than aluminum in the galvanic series) you should use a stronger acid to etch the metal just prior to bonding. To prepare steel for a good bond with acrylic, use dilute muriatic acid (Home Depot or swimming pool supply) followed by fresh water rinse and then immediately dry with a heat gun then glue up ASAP. Very short window before the steel oxidizes (microscopic, not something you can see with the nekkid eye) - the oxidation interferes with bonding.
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    Platerforge Guest

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    it will work.....but can't be around water.......have yet to do steel.....heard that use superfast on steel.....the adhere doesn't do it unless you have nails to anchor it in the foot.
    I have used direct glue with aluminum in plates, I-bex system, and the cuffs as well including the foals, and even made up ones for glueing mini's. moisture and water are you enemies in keeping the glue on.
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    david kelly Dave Kelly

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    What glue do you guys use? Or for what jobs do you use different glues?
    Equilox and vettec products are all i've ever used or found readily available.
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    Platerforge Guest

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    Equi-Bond

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