I drill with 5/16" countersink bit then tap with a valley shoe tapper (crank the handle) and 3-flute taps. 4-flute taps get clogged - no room for the chips to fall out. 3-flutes you can just crank it in and back out as fast as you can turn the crank. Battery powered impact drill with 3-flute taps is the fastest thing I've seen for tapping, but Bro Burten's setup sounds pretty slick as a one shot deal.
Tom I must be using the 4 flute ...its a nightmare.. I have heard great things about the cordless impact ...I'm intrested in that because it could have more use...can someone post a pic of that set up..
Here ya go . . . 3-flute tap http://drillamerica.net/dwt57176taps_spiral_pointed_q.aspx cordless hammer drill http://www.harborfreight.com/power-...ch-two-speed-variable-hammer-drill-67025.html Might be able to shop around and beat those deals . . . Here is the Valley Shoe Tapper I have on my rig. http://valleyfarrier.com/cart/shop/item.aspx?itemid=1921
Don't forgot the drilling/tapping fluid, makes all the difference in the world. shouldn't add more than 8-10 min. Timed myself today
Travis i have a valley tapper for sale in the tag sale tread this week if your interested Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Cordless impact, Bit has 5/16 bit with 3/8 tap and counter sink all in one. I found them at a local hardware store for about $15 the impact was $120. Cuts back on a lot of time when your drilling and tapping a full set. The tap part of the bit is fluted .
I drilled and tapped one today for a treatment/hospital plate. I use a tap similar to the valley shoe tapper but mine sits in the hardy hole. One trip in and out of the hole and the bolts go right in slick as snot. I use the three flute tap. Couple of hits with WD-40 before you tap makes it all gravy.
I'd definitely agree with ya Anthony, the amount of times I have arrived in a yard with six sets to do only to be told there and then, "oh by the way we want stud holes in all of em" that's as you said minimum an hour extra work which is a huge delay in my eyes.
I THE REDFELLA CAVE MAN HOT PUNCH EVERYTHING TAP BY HAND its about time I let you jokers drage me akickin n a screamin into the future ay
i keep a couple of them in the truck, but the holes are punched right back in the heels i like them forward more up closer to the last nail hole,
That's an interesting point Wesley. What ddoes the brains trust here think about stud hole positioning? By default I punch them about 40mm forward of the heel but some jumps riders like them close to the heel. Thoughts on best positioning?
Red, most setups in NZ either have no power or such a PITA tp get to it, the caveman stuff is by necessity... and mostly concave here so punching is so much better anyway.
Bumpity bump. Any thoughts on this guys? I do one of the local vet's horses who fancies herself as a lower leg specialist. I was out there yesterday and asked this question... she didn't think position mattered as much as correct stud selection for the conditions.
I am often confuesed here as well I have heard a bloke say there should be only one placed in eash shoe this on the lateral branch just aft of the widest point of the hoof or no futther than half way between the widest part of hoof and the heel propper of the shoe another thought only one stud on medial branch in similer position I think either would only crank the hoof adversley in either position I just dont like that idear I see in books and on film and TV three studs two heels and one in toe quarters usually laterally I always use two in the heels and about a 1/4 to half way between proper quarter and heel Ive often wondered If the lareral stud shouldnt be a little shorter that the medial taking torque into consideration I think it odd the expert vet says position doesnt matter so much I think the sise and the position play a very important role But as I am sure that I realy dont know Im very open to guidence here yeah
Gday Tone Mate I love banging them in I made all ny own stamps I maintain there dementions by hammer n hand I seldom use and linisher to dress them and for the most part my stud holes match up nicely to a 3/8 th tap I do need to put more time at the forge in all aspects of shoe making and the motification of kegs Im such a pleb here I do wish for the local lads to get togeather again and reform the Tas Farriers n Blacksmiths Association I was always chuffed to go along to these training days n seminars Always good fun to learn n have fun, a meal n wash it all down a couple of drinks in the good company of like minded friends yeah
Geeeeeeeeorge I got alllll the talent in the world when it comes to eatin n a drrrinken n a havin fun but I dont got much aft of that sslike FUN!! MMAAAAATE you orgonise it Ill have ay he he he All jokes aside I was secretary the year we finaly shut er down I class it as one of the sadest days of my adult life but you are right it would seem that after all the talk from fellers that sounded very keen down here its not going to happen unless I start rousing lowder n get off my fat coyte n do some thing
Jissus, it's like family here,anything goes wrong , blame ray, .... furniture looks ok to me David, are you still feel;ing the effects of the last eve. of beer? stay with the stout ! Ray
