David how would you shoe this guy as not to change drastic over night... I was thinking if if comes to the point of them keeping him and I have no choice but to shoe him ..I would get the heels down as much as i could then wedge him back up and pack under the pad with impression material ..looks like now there is nothing under that pad and I'm a firm believer in packing the foot..and float the heel and maybe use a z bar on that quarter crack... If ya look close u can see where it look like they had the quarter crack growing out then another fresh one popped at the hair line...looks like the other foot has a start of one also....
In my thirty three years of shoeing that is the hoof that is the most un-treatable I have found. If you stop it in one direction it will fall out of another. You will not win on that hoof. You could trim an even amount off heel to toe, even medially laterally, or you could trim one side down more than the other, or you could lower the heels. It may be that that heel to toe relationship is the extensor and flexor in balance, who knows. I think an egg bar has some merit where the hoof has such an uneven role, as is the leather pad to reduce the shock. those are just two of the problems, then there is the crack, the collateral ligs, and a sub clinical laminitic senario going on, its a reel ball breaker a foot like this.
Does diff size stock play into stretch.. like concave ..or a wider stock or thicker ...wider ...so on and so forth ... I'm trying to figure out my sizeing by measure then make the shoe then measure the after...?... Also someone said the other day a few post ago about if your forging the metal its stretch more than if just turning shoes.. or forging the heels... Can you explain what is meant by forgeing vs just turning...
I don't think that you can manipulate the length of concave that much, otherwise it just looks battered. I think Turning was used to describe when you literally turn the shoe with as little hits as possible. Forging will include bumping fullering and how much you beat the hell out of the shoe. So you will need to know how much steel goes into bumping and how much you typically stretch the shoe when fullering etc.
same length of different stock size will give you different size shoe when you turn them. Turning is literally just turning the shoe. Forging is anytime you alter the dimension of the steel. Get a piece of steel hot, place out on your horn and hit it right where it's touching the horn. Then it out past where it's touching. 2 different signs. Everything in making shoes affects the measurement system. Knowing how each affects your system and consistency is the key to figuring it out. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
I assume this is how both of you worked out what to cut? Smitty 5 1/2 + 5 + 2 + 2 = 14/1/2 Gary 5 1/2 + 5 + 2 + 3 3/4 = 15 3/4
No, my calculation was 5 +5 1/4 +2 +3 1/2 = 15 3/4 If my maths is correct, that comes to 16 1/4 Smitty hasn't told us what he cut yet.
I take it you meant Zouhair, a mistake easily done considering the skill similarities we have . The way I worked it out was 5 1/2 + 5 + 1 1/2 + 2 1/2 = 14'' 1/2 . I thought the foot is pointy so maybe 2'' in the toe will be too much. As for the bar, from my very limited experience 3'' 3/4 for a foot like this will be too much. I think Smitty is chuckling in the background while we are trying to workout what did he cut!! Common Smitty put us out of our misery .
Sorry, I meant what figures did you use? For example I added the width (5) and the length (5 1/4) added 2 for the toe bend and 3 1/2 for the bar.
quote="gary evans, post: 21374, member: 34"]Sorry, I meant what figures did you use? For example I added the width (5) and the length (5 1/4) added 2 for the toe bend and 3 1/2 for the bar.[/quote] Y. 5 1/4. X. 5. X. 1. 3/4. X. 3
