And for the folks like me who lurke to know, what makes the E4 so good? Is it that it has enough head to sit in the groove? Enough length to get through the shoe and into the hoof? I guess what I am asking is what is the reasoning behind the different nails? WHy aren't all nails extra slim if a big shank is damaging? Are slim nails harder to put in?
Rick E4 is good for 3/4x3/8 its kinder on the foot regarding them staying on better with E5 No foot pep and fit are the big factors of shoes staying on better
I'm starting to believe this is a pretty accurate statement for everything but handmades from flat stock. Just never really dared say it.
Why hand-mades i have seen hand-mades you could not get a nail into and nailed on machiners the nail-holes were good the fact some one makes hand-mades dont mean everything is right
Does it seem to you that we lower our standards on nail fit for machiners, and raise it for handmades? I have a whole pile of handmades that I've rejected based on nail placement and fit, but I've never thrown out a machiner because of nail fit or placement. I have changed the hole, or chosen another brand shoe. On the other hand, rejecting the handmades gives me a good supply to practice shoe mods on. Most of my pile is mutilated beyond recognition, LOL. Regards
Do you mean you've changed the brand of shoe you stock you truck with or you actually carry different brands to get different nail holes?
funny isnt it , ive just put a pair of 11 1/2 x 3/4 x 3/8 with 5 no E3 derbys . i have never knowingly used E5 in that section . Rick have you been raiding my shoes ? chris
I carry several brands of shoe in the truck. Different shoes for different situations. I don't remember ever choosing a shoe because of the nail I wanted to use. I pick the nail based on the show I want to use. My shoe choice is dependent on how fine or course the holes are punched. I have over the years changed brands and models of shoes several times, if that is what you were asking. How do you do it? Regards
Who told? Just thought to ask: I've never used an E3. Does the head not sink below the top of the crease, and do the sides of the nail touch the sides of the crease? Regards
depends on the nailhole LOL . i normally hit the stamp twice but just the once today . my stamps are set for Eheads . the depth into the steel determines which size nail fits snuggly . that is what i find anyway with concave . flat steel i use different stamps . chris
I don't understand why any qualified farrier would use an E nail with a concave sectioned shoe. bevel headed nails are for concave & flat shoes that are flat creased. E nail are only meant for stamped shoes . The exception is a creased shoe that has been stamped proud in the crease to accommodate the four corners of the head of the nail having support .
Your Whatever doesn't change the reasoning behind why they manufacture an E Head & a Bevel head. An E head nail in any shoe other then stamped or a proud stamped creased shoe. has a greater risk of the nail head catching & pulling the clinch. But I suppose the comp boys aren't to worried about that & just go with what they think looks pretty right or wrong & all the sheep follow .
Nails I use are all mustad 2 slims-7 slims. Regular head E10 for heavy horses and ASV 1 3/4 for alluminum. Mustad are the most expensive but also the cheapest in the long run, when they hold up in the section better and dont shear like so many other makes do. A couple of lost shoes prevented will make up for the extra cost. I use Pledgers concave mainly, cant beat the british concave for holding the nails in the section and look good when you return. I also use Kerkhaert classic rollers when i side clip and they are also very good. The worst shoes Ive seen for holding nails are from asia such as malaysian shoes, NWT and alpha.
They mustn't be getting out of a walk. Are you saying what I have stated about the two differing nail heads is wrong ?
