I have been shoeing horses for close to 30 years and just punched my first stud hole. Almost every horse on my book is studded so I drill a ton of shoes every year. I don't know what took me so long but seems very fast and efficient. At first I ran a counter sink bit through the hole to make sure it was all good but they can go right to the tapper in a fraction of the time. My question is about the maintenance of the punch itself. I cool it in beeswax after each branch and try not to beat it too far into the shoe so it is hitting the anvil face. Seems like it could deform pretty easily with such heavy work. What are some peoples routine for actually punching the hole and do they have to dress the tool periodically, cooling procedures etc. Thanks.
if you're punching concave, it's pretty easy on the punch so dressing is minimal but still important. Going through 3/8"- 10mm, dressing is on going. Better to touch it up with a mill bastard file every few sets than wait and have to go after it with a grinder. I use a water base forging die lube I got from a guy at an ABANA conference. Lasts much longer than bees wax and doesn't smoke. I can punch 4 or 5 sets (30 to 40 holes)before I need to re apply it.
Jim I like to fit the shoe first before I punch my holes. I would come with my first fit it would be on the money then 2nd heat punch the 2 stud holes and final fit with the same heat regarding the dressing of your punch I dont remember when I had to dress it last and we do a lot of stud holes I just dip in water
Thanks Guys, my first bunch of shoes I punched the hole dead center in the branch resulting in a slight bulge on outsside edge of the branch. I can fix this in a second when the shoe goes to the grinder but I was wondering if maybe that was a result of not enough heat, or maybe offset the hole slightly to inside. I imagine it is hard to punch a hole without displacing some steel. Thanks for the insight though I didn't want to trash my punch before I got the hang of it.
If you punch the medial side hole more towards the inside it is safer (less likely to tread on themselves). Punching or stamping holes when the steel is too hot causes excess distortion. It only has to be a littler cooler to avoid this. Too hot = distortion in shoe and punch, too cold =beat up punch. Think goldilocks = just right. Plus when you mess up, not if but when, you do have the technology to make it right.
Thanks Brian, I found that just right today. Did six sets and it was 3 to 4 blows on front side flipped it tapped it once to find the hole and one blow and a little circle of steel plopped into my water pail. Just like a paper punch with very little distortion. My punch looks to be in perfect shape.
