Everyday Shoeing

Discussion in 'Everyday Horseshoeing' started by gary evans, Mar 8, 2012.

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    smitty88 Well-Known Member

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    What section did you end up with joey?
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    Joey Aczon Member

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    Honestly not 100% sure, but I'm pretty sure it's more than 1/2" x 1" at the toe based on how it felt in the tongs, and drawn to about 5/16" thick before the C/W.
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    smitty88 Well-Known Member

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    What type of work does the horse do joey?
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    Joey Aczon Member

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    It's a Tennessee Walking Horse, and only shows in rail classes. The shoe is really for the weight/float at the toe to help her move a little better at the walking/racking gaits. In these cases where extra weight is called for I feel a roadster works well as an alternative to the typical "Walking Horse Hind Shoe" with caulks and trailers as the horse is still able to pivot on the outside heel as the leg travels through the landing/loading phase of the stride.
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    chris bunting Well-Known Member

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    are sure your figures are right Joey ?
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    Joey Aczon Member

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    Yeah, why what would you have cut for this shoe?
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    slowshoe Member

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    Tried pulling some clips today. Not ready yet. Hurt my elbow a few months ago from over working it. This summer was first time buying clipped shoes under a size 2 in any real quanity.
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    chris bunting Well-Known Member

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    what are the foot measurements Joey ?
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    smitty88 Well-Known Member

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    Joey I think chris is meaning here is a 13 1/2" concave and a 10 1/2"roadster
    I coul be wrong.
    This roadster measures 5 3/4x 4 3/4
    Concave measures 6 x 6

    Attached Files:

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    chris bunting Well-Known Member

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    10 1/2 , bump a good inch into the toe , inch and half for the calkin , 5 1/2 is a serious amount to draw and make a 13 1/2" shoe , I cannot see that in the picture posted
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    chris bunting Well-Known Member

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    Joey , sorry I see what you mean now , you measure feet differently to me , you measure the circumference from heel to heel , making your 13 1/2 , a 5" shoe or 11 3/4 to me , i would probably use the same
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    Joey Aczon Member

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    No problemo, man. I could never figure out how measure feet for shoes the way you do.
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    smitty88 Well-Known Member

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    Its not so hard:)
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    Mikel Dawson Active Member

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    It just takes lots of practice. One way I did some practice is take different sized keg shoes, use them as a hoof, measure up and make a shoe to fit. Just remember, you're using it as a hoof, not a shoe pattern, so make your heals accordingly.
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    Western Hill Forge Active Member

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    I did it the same way Mikel. Now that I know how much steel I need for each size, I use a keg shoe to measure a shoe, and adjust my steel length accordingly. I find it easier and faster than using a ruler or tape. I bet this will cause some of the traditionalists to shake their heads, but I'm guessing I'm not the only one that does this.

    Regards
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    smitty88 Well-Known Member

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    Shake my head, im pulling my hair out lol.
    I would stick to measuring a foot imo
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    Western Hill Forge Active Member

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    I don't think you do much hair pulling, Smitty. I've seen your pictures. :p

    Regards
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    Josh Ramsey Member

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    The one thing I'll say is that it's a lot easier to carry a ruler/tape than a bunch of shoes

    Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk 2
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    Mikel Dawson Active Member

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    I know there's nothing like measuring the real thing, but it helped me and that's the point.
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    Joey Aczon Member

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    I've done this a few times when making those heavy "Walking Horse" shoes, but mostly to have the nailing pattern. I just need more practice on the shoe.

    A couple years ago I stared having trouble with my measurements again because stuff started coming up short. I eventually concluded that had become efficient enough with turning shoes that I needed to start cutting more stock to cover the foot. Also, this is only my 2nd pair of these, maybe the 7th shoe total.

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