Poor nail fit, that will rattle loose in a couple of weeks. E 5 slims would of been better for that shoe. The toe radius looks good. The shoe looks battered into shape and the heels do nothing for the foot.
Some handmades done today for some driving cobs. Pretty pleased considering the feathers where caked in mud Just a quick note, no bullying or i'll tell dad hahaha
The last job is the best one with the better heels. A little tip for what I found when I was training years ago is to punch the studhole from the foot surface, bring the shoe to the bick and forge back in the frog eye. One blow on the studhole to flatten it and spread the metal followed by two sharp blows on the ground surface to form the hole. This will give the appearance of a hole that has been drilled in. I would like to see the road plugs flush with the shoe but thats personal opinion. Keep at it, your doing well
Cheers all I'm a second year chris. Cheers Marc, will give that a go next time. They where bashed out there and then pretty quickly. was running tight with time, so not show standard i'm afraid, but i'm happy with them. Ended up putting a pair of size 3 strommy's on the front of one of them. Left the studs proud slightly to help with more grip as there working driving cobs (hence double studs). But cheers for comments really enjoying it all at the moment.
I knew the nail fit was bad because they sunk too low. I'll try E 5's next time. Shoe was battered as I ran out of propane and couldn't find the wrench to change tanks. I was trying to straighten the branch more. I still go to the foot several times fixing the fit. I disagree on the heels. Horse is low angled and lives in sand. Heels should help with keeping that foot from rocking back.
If you lay that shoe on a flat surface you will notice only half the heel is now touching. If you lay they shoe on a soft surface do you think the narrow heel will sink or float more? Also, when you onion a keg shoe for support it's not a bad idea to cut out the inside of the web with a fuller. And probably give a severe roll to the outer web of the shoe to about the widest part.
What do you mean "narrow" heel? I widened both heels and all the heel touches the surface. So your saying its better to widen with a Fuller than hammer it out? What is the severe roll to the outer for?
I wasn't being sarcastic. I'm either misunderstanding or just completely lost. Maybe you meant narrow as in vertically which yes its thinned down on the inside web. But the ground surface makes complete contact so I was/am confused.
I agree with David as it not being a bad job, but when I make an onion heel the reason I was taught is to provide support for the bars and the area most likely to have a corn. So you need to forge relief alittle more forward on the inside web of the shoe. May not be exactly to the Book Of Shoes BUT I have found it provides enough relief so a horse can perform without pain in the heels/bar area..Good Luck!!
She specifically said the heels were widened to add support so the horse doesn't rock back. The way she did it encourages it if nothing else. If you're trying to add support you don't set the heel down from the ground surface. If you're just trying to protect an area you can set it down the way she did.
