Applying Borium

Has anyone used a gas forge to apply borium stick to shoes. Our carriage horses are being used on asphalt and needs the extra traction. My oxy-acetelyne setup was removed from my truck by a low-life.

Thanks for the advice.

Glenn

Why no use drill-tec? It's easily put on in a forge.

it's called dril tec. first grind the scale off the shoe, bring it up to heat, apply the brazing flux BEFORE the shoe forms any scale and place the suitable size chunk of dril tec and some additional flux. as soon as the matrix melts, remove the shoe and shape the carbide pieces to your liking.

Just don't hit that molten stuff, and sure don't hit it with a good hammer!

Thanks for the responses.

I used the same method with the borium sticks.

Heat the shoe, knock the scale off, iron mt flux, section of borium on top, more flux, as soon as start melting take out and tap into the shoe.

Or use the drive in road pins...I like them pretty good...simple to use and when its time to reshoe just heat up the old shoe bump it on the anvil and the road pins will fall out ...drill new holes in new shoes and reuse the pins..

I put a pot magnet on the bottom of my hardy hole and punch the pins out over the hole. Otherwise I lose them in the snow.

Regards

When I put driltec on with the forge, I drill a little depression into the shoe with a large bit,(mine happens to be 7/8 inch), that creates a "pocket" to place your chunk of driltec into so it stays put on the shoe as you move it into and out of the forge. I seem to get a much more accurate puddle of traction particles this way. Never ceases to amaze me why someone would go through all the trouble to level/balance a foot, flatten a shoe, and then have one heel a 1/4 inch higher than the other with their traction globs??????

I use way more drive in studs/pins now than I ever used to.

Dave

Applied with no problems. Still prefer the torch method. I like Dave's idea of drilling depressions in the shoe before applying.

Thanks everyone