Anybody using these style hammers? They're the ones with the kinda stubby looking heads and short handles.
I ve not used either of them , but in some ways I see similarities to the cats head hammer (usa style ) and the engineer hammers that i ve seen smiths use in the past. ray
I have a Tom Clark. It's good for shaping, not so much for turning, but you can do it. I mostly use it as a clipping hammer. It's well made and balanced, I just prefer my Flatland Forge and Mustads for shoe making. Regards
think in terms of a rock tied to a too short stick. I always felt like a caveman when using it, no finesse/no whip action. I decided if I was going to forge anything, that hard, I would just walk over 2 steps and turn on the power hammer.
I was thinking about buying one. I like the way they look but of course how they look has nothing to do with how they function.
Here is what I think, the short handle means the lever from the handle is lost, the head is heavier as a consequence. I found that I could not lock my wrist and keep the head speed up as I swung the hammer, I could however bring it up and down perpendicular to the shoe, which made me feel like someone in there first day in the forge ever. I am never a fan of spending money to make the job harder. Others may have different views.
Brian, I think that if you have power available to you the power hammer is the way to go.........why else would the almighty have invented it but ............. Draftshoer, I remember that Bud Beaston (Oklahoma Farriers College) had a power hammer(Little Giant) and also used an 8 lb. sledge with about a 12 to 14 inch handle for making Saddlebred , TWH , draft shoes. When using the sledge his hammer swing was very different than with the turning hammer, it was more of a shoulder and upper body motion vs a arm swing and was kept close to his body, and could manually move alot of steel. I m guessing that the heavy headed short handle hammers were/are the answer for the non powered shop or traditionalist smith. regards Ray
