Hi Rick, I have never tried to explain this in writing so please bare with me. In my head (scary place) When I see horses with long toes, pancaked feet, and under run heels I try to get the toe out of the way, because I believe that is the main culprit. Too much toe affecting break over causing constant pressure on the tubules driving them to a point in advanced cases where they are literally parallel with the ground. Not really but you have all seen it. Instead of a long rocker toe or a rockered shoe I set the shoe back a bit, more than a bit. Instead of rasping all of that toe flush with the shoe, because sometimes that exposes laminae and looks like hell, dubbing it off also looks like hell. I try to 'champfer' (bevel) the toe... no idea how to spell it just learned how to pronounce it. I have recently very recently due to some more sage advice incorporated a rolled toe with this. I do want to do the things you mentioned,(rockered toe and rockered shoe) which as far as I can tell serve a very similar if not identical function( making for a seamless break over). But to answer you question plainly, the bevel was the bi product of the set back shoe.
Best He-Man impersonation, "I have the POWER!" I have been waiting for this damn block brush for ages just arrived!
With only one exception that I am aware of, companies market their wedge pads as a #1 wedge, a #2 wedge, a #3 wedge, etc. The number is not necessarily equivalent to the amount of degrees of the pad, with that measurement [usually] being greater than the number assigned to the pad. Having taken some time to actually do the measurements, I find that, for instance, a #2 wedge pad is actually 4* +/-. The only way I know of to actually[precisely?] figure out how many degrees any wedge pad will add to a given hoof is to stand the horse on the pad and then use a half circle protractor(http://www.tjleone.com/a06_180protractor.htm) or, as I did, use a digital protractor (http://gizmodo.com/5944289/digital-protractor-promises-more-accuracy-than-a-plastic-half-circle) to see what the effect of the 'heel lift' is and compare that to the hoof without the lift.
just like the KB-open heel is really a 3*+......not a true 2* I always thought that of the different wedge pads............they must say 1-2-3-4 degree......not a #1-2-3-4 type wedge pad, confusing
I call this Mr. Hefty. I used 1" x 3 /8" steel bar stock. I measured out the nail holes and marked them somehow they are still a slightly slightly bit askew. . To date this is my favorite one. I can't help think that Smitty is snickering to himself thinking about me trying to be forge this larger stock. It was a bitch. Haha I bumped up the toe about half an inch. I angled my nail holes measured them they all work. My heels are a little better no fish mouth. The roughness on the one heel, it's because I gave up using a hacksaw and chopped it in half with The Anvil Devil. Fixing that was a chore.
Tejun .any inperfections in your hammer face or anvil will transfer to your steel.i prefer a flater face for finnish work a domed face or pean are for moveing steel away from where you strike and will leave depreshons. A tool called a flatter makes life easer.wish this thing would post pics
Agreed.but part of that is knowing the affect each hammer and each strike has on the work and good tools make that easer. Ive no dought you could get a glass finnish with a crose hatched framing hammer John but while his work is progressing verry fast it looks like he is trying to finnish them with a ball pean. Tejun.short over laping blows make for a smother finnish
Oh ok, the littlest BIG things slip the mind. I thought the pot marks were from not brushing it enough. Haha Next shoe this will be a primary focus. Yo Smitty can I try fullering yet?
Is there a reason you skiped the second hole and set one so far back .Not nitpicking tejun just curious
Oh no. Nit picking is good! I used it but I drove it to shallow so I just pulled that nail and skipped it rather than perforating the hell out of that spot.
Well done Tejun for me i would like you to nail him up better its not good long term driving nails is this manner
Today's work. Huge bar stock shoe and one lite shoe. It's amazing how quick the little ones go since the muscles are adapted to huge bar stock. (Thank you Smitty) I know there is work to be done. Was real busy this week and last week, first time I made shoes since last post in here. Today's combined efforts.
Tejun these were pics an apprentice did to help him with nail hole position and shape, just a guide but you might find it helpful.
