Somebody asked me about these clinches on another page. I told him, "I've been reading a lot of critiques from an Irish gentleman ("smitty88") and he really gets after folks about "pulling those clinches down". Today, I was really trying to think about that when I undercut the nails and focus on folding that clinch over on itself. But when it bent, I had a gap and my first thought was, "Smitty ain't gonna like this one!"
OK, Dale. I would like about a half size bigger shoe. If that's a 1, A 1 extra may be in order. The fit is too tight at the heels, horse is already beyond the shoe. As to the clinches, when you pull them down, you get horn under the clinch. The the only way to get a smooth clinch then is to rasp it off. When clenching the lower rein of the clincher should not move or should move up a bit, but never down. Don't know if you clinch off a stand or off your knee, but as an example as you clinch the lateral side of a foot, rest the lower rein on your outside knee so it can't move down. Soon you'll get the feel.
Thanks gentlemen...that's why I posted 'em up. Hope others will too, but appreciate the feedback. I'll put up some others on the next round. I've got a gelding with badly under run heels. I've been gathering him up some, but his heels hardly grow at all...everything goes forward. When sighting down the back of his hoof, the heels are lower than the frog!
Mr. Jack would you say these heels are hooked in too tightly? Should a bigger shoe be more open at the heel? I don't know how to draw lines on here, but if this shoe shaped as is, were a size larger, then it would be pressuring the frog; so that's why I was thinking maybe a straighter heel, not curved in so much. Should a line drawn across the back of the foot, heel to heel, be as far back as the central sulcus of the frog? Am I on the right track with these thoughts?
I think if you were to clean up the back of the heels and trim the back of the frog up you'd more easily see where you could fit to. And it probably wouldn't be so wrappy looking. Sent from my XT1030 using Tapatalk 2
i reckon the shoe is ok , needed the heels opening up though , should have opened them up with your pincers before nailing on , take it you use clenching tongs ? the clench just needs folding down into the undercut , not forced down
Generally I wring the nails off. Tap them on the clinch block. Bring the foot forward on the stand and clean up under the clinch. Nip the clinches and rasp smooth; then use clinchers to fold clinches. Yesterday that mare was in season and being a bit of a pill. I didn't use the clinch block and tried to undercut the nails and fold them over and get out from under her. I will keep posting for critique and appreciate all who take time to comment.
This is one of ours, but we just got her. I'd shod her about a month ago and thought I remembered a 13 1/4" foot, so I had a couple pieces 11 3/8" precut, but she measured closer to 13". I'd call it a bit long, but I went with it because the shear and bar stock wasn't close by, and nobody was going to be looking that close.
As an engineer, Dale, I always knew that I wanted the caudle support further back than the average hoof wall. I couldn't understand why Mother Nature didn't agree. Then Gene O mentioned that paintboard impressions on the mustangs generally showed the wide part of the frog as being a support structure. Hey, Mother an I didn't disagree. I just hadn't understood how she did it. When we shoe them, the shoe should come back a bit further than the hoof wall does. Wide part of the frog is a good estimate.
Hi Rick, no, still did not have the time to talk to a friend of mine to make me one - it's on my list for this month.
Hi Smitty, he had a bit of separated wall. I could remove most of it, but it felt right for me to not put nails in there for now - i do remember your advice that my heel nails are the most important ones and that nail spacing is important. Hope to get this all well done in the next shoeing.
