Thank you, but the credit needs to go everyone that was kind enough to ever let me ride with them. Kevin Hatridge, Brian Buckner, Tom Turner, Jim Quick, John Hilderbrant... just to name a few. These guys were never to busy to show me something and answer my dumb questions. "If I can see farther then others its because I am standing on the backs of giants!"
When cutting the concave getting a nice clean cut is a good start working concave as you know you have to be extra gentle with it. working the iron clean and brushing at the right time all make a difference in the end product
Critic would be bad finish, nails to low on the front. Probably should have toe clip the fronts. I think my clip fit on the the hinds is good.
Outline is good, heels are tight. No I didn't miss the heel, that's where I was cleaning it up. I could have maybe turned the last 1/2 inch of the lat heel in a bit tighter but it was close. Heels are tight because the horse is going to be training and working Mardi Gras parades, and wanted to lessen chance of losing the shoe. Figured kinda like a hunter fit.
Nope, to try and give some kind of traction downtown. Owner didn't have money for borium. Plus horse is always a bit on the low side. I advised to only do this one time as I'm afraid may be too much traction long term. Mardi Gras is going on now and the training school is coming up. Includes a lot of arena work too.
Kim, If the horse is going to be walking on a paved surface, then he's better off with a flat shoe rather than one with heel caulks mainly because the flat shoe will make full contact with the surface and the heeled shoe won't. Since the owner couldn't afford borium, you could have just used a bit larger nail so the head would be sticking up some. That would probably have given enough traction for the parade and by the end of the parade, the heads would have been worn down enough to not worry about any traction they offered. Alternatively, you could keep some small drive in studs or pins on hand and just add them to the heels of the shoe. Even the pins would probably give enough traction for now and wouldn't cause any harm later.
Its several parades. Calks will be quite worn down I'm sure. Like I said he's always been a little on the low side angle wise. He slips in regular shoes so this is just something to try. I was hoping lessening the amount of bearing service would stop some of that slide in a sense putting more pressure on the points making contact so they gripped a little. I most certainly could be wrong about that but that was my thought process.
Those p13 studs that Rick is referring to are the ticket. Quick, easy and cheaper than borium. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Like Rick said, I would have used the pins... It would have been cheap enough and affordable Cody Gilreath, CF Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I can understand fitting close to prevent shoe loss. I think more care with the dorsal dressing would of made fitting easier, I think there is a good shaped foot in there and you could use 5/16 flush road plugs to provide grip. I use them on hunters and road horses here that do a lot of fast work and they never slip even when the shoe is completley worn out. Consider using a sanding block on your finishing. Hope that helps
Kim to add to what Marc said about your dorsal dressing you need to get a better finish with your rasp to me your only scratching the surfice to me your feet never look dressed again i will mention the way your boxing your shoes slopy work. if you have a vise learn how to use a rasp would go with pins for the grip try not to drag your clinches down so much if you look at the state of the feet with before clenching there a mess
you have to remember Kim.....that those shoes are of the old American size and a 1/4 to 1/2 size smaller than you are used to; and you have to make the heels for that particular shoe. or go up a size and grind down to a tight hunter fit.
