In the past I have made drill to tap size charts with my business logo as advertising/info tools. I was thinking of another style info promotion, a listing of different formulas for determining what length of bar to cut for handmades. If anyone is willing to share their formula ,knowing that I may put it to print, I would appreciate it. I will give credit to each formula used. This info would be put onto a 4.25 by 5.5 inch laminated card, I'll probably incorporate a 5 inch ruler on the edge and a heading with my logo on it. Thanks in advance for any help. Ray
Just some food for thought Ray. . .everyone is going to cut different amounts based on how the fit and how much they forge the steel. Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
Josh, I appreciate that a lot of folks have a lot of ways to do things....different, that said I know over the years I have seen and heard of "formulas" that different folk have/do use. Thought it might be informative to put some of them in writing, A # of times I had the opportunity to write down Bob Scradzio s(sp) formula and foolishly I never did, thanks for the info ray
when swaging racing plates with steel handmade........you have to measure a stock from what ever point you make; then swage it over and over again...till you get a pattern to your own individual swage. mine is 1 inch now; I hammer deeper than most; and don't move as much my wrist. then when you get your pattern down...ei....you need for ex. 10 1/2 inch stock for this horse; you cut at 9 1/2, then stretch out the stock to the 10 1/2 inches that is truly needed. you must measure your pattern....making sure it is usually acurate.
Individual or not, I have a simple method that I add to and subtract with the various features of the shoe as you build it. If you have a start plan then you can adjust it to your forging but a start plan enables you to do this. For the the purpose of this thread I will describe a 3/4 fullered straight bar. foot measurement 5 1/2 wide by 5 3/4 long and 3 between the heels. When calculating the length I try and think of all the processes that the shoe will need for instance metal will need adding for the bend, more for a jump in the toe and the bar across the heels. Metal will need reducing for fullering and seating. The more you make the more accurate you become. 5 1/2 + 5 3/4 = 11 1/4 I would add 2 inches for the bend 13 1/4, then add what ever you intend to jump into the toe, this is easy because you can measure the bar stock once you have jumped it, which alows accuracy for that feature. 13 1/4 + 1/2 for a jump. = 13 3/4 As I said before I would stretch the shoe with the fullering so I would reduce the length by 1/2 inch so back to 13 1/4 + the distance between the heels for a straight bar so i would cut 16 1/4 I would increase the length if I were working with 3/4 section as the outer radius is smaller than 7/8 Knowing what each feature of the shoe costs you in metal is the key, specific numbers are the personel bit. I hope someone finds this useful.
Ray it would like asking what would cut for this foot it measures 5 1/8 x 4 1/4 tight toe inside hunter heel fit putting on 3/4 x 3/8 well what did i cut?
Im assuming its concave, that would obviously make a difference. I guess we will just have to wait til he's home from work to get his answer.
