Show us your handmades

The guide fuller just steady's your fuller when marking. It's not a guide for where you fullering should go.

A hot cut works well. The section is weak at the top so you need something very narrow so it doesn't pop open too much.

as far as i know the guide fuller has to suite the block
not every guide fuller works with each block
you use your guide fuller then splitter
going down 1/3 dept of your section
then you use your fuller again not every fuller suites.
one big no no is dont be to fine or you will not get them up

When you make them for feet you have to stretch or not go in so deep. So you can have different sections s out of the same block. Depending on your guide for depth every time isn't the best decision Imo

Chris B has loads of blocks for different sections
i would be thinking the block is for that through section
i could be wrong

You can certainly have a block for every length and you can have guide set up also. As a rule I don't let my tools dictate my shoe building.

dont follow that Eric

All the guide fuller does for me is help steady the tool. Why do you use it?

What he's trying to say is we let the guide fuller dictate the shoe. We only had 3 pieces of 5/8 the first died in a tragic fire the second came out too coarse and this one to fine. The only thing we did with the guide was mark it.

how can one block make several sections ? a guide fuller is only used to mark the fullering then a hunter fuller is used to fuller the section wherever it is required , the fullers we use in tooled section are narrower ( set at 40 * rather than 50* ) this pushes the outside of the section upright making a nice concave section . as John said we have blocks that cover a variety of sections , some have the guide in the bottom of the block , used for the front shoes , we rarely use a guide fuller

After you make your section, heat it up and hit it some more. Your section will change.

What section are you getting Eric out of your block

Don't remember. Prob around 7/16 x 3/4. Generally I end up using someone else's block of so we don't have to switch out blocks. Which is why I like to use my eye to set the guide rather than depending on it being set up for a particular block.

Eric I have no idea what the hell your trying to say... the guide fuller helps you steady the tool but doesn't dictate your fullering? If the guide fuller isn't set up for the block why mark it with a guide fuller that you have to move either more coarse or more fine... just mark it with the splitter.

The only time I see a guide fuller being useful is when it is set up for a particular section.

OK Two questions, first how many have used spider plates and what was y0ur reason and results? And How do you start a thread on here? I can't seem to find the right button? or click thing?

The reason a guide fuller is used is you dont have a big area to work with (fullering) and
the guide fuller justs makes a small channel so when you use the splitter

it doesnt wander. having the guide fuller set up to suite your section is a big +
the splitter goes down a nice part of the way and then use your fuller lightly

to sweeten the job.
now i havent done much of T/F but those words come from men

that know what there talking about

In the Forum bar, click on the sub forum that you want to create a thread in (in this case 'Horseshoeing Competitions and Handmade Horseshoes') and you will find a button at the end of the Forum bar toward the top of the page which says 'Post New Thread'.

There's a forum bar? What's on tap?

Dmitry, that's pretty much what I've been saying. If your guide isnt set up there are other ways toget it done. When im by myself i run the hammer down the top,to create a flat spot,then split it with no guide.