Thats its best use round a bend, I find the short flat ones best for the straight line fullering. On the downside with the radiused blade it jumps back on the full stoppys!! For full stops Jim Keith cant be beaten.
Depends Chris, If I am under pressure for time then I get it welded then fuller, If its a specimen then mark it on the straight and then weld it. If its a an extension shoe then I fuller it turned. I have lots of rationals for different shoes as to the order I do it. I should be more adaptable but I come unstuck when I try that.
i dont really have a plan , i just do what seems right at that moment , if the heat feels right i just do it , do you mark where you want to start and finish ? i just use my eye , hence the regular cock ups lol
Chris I use a Jim Blurton T square to mark the start at the toe bend, its the only use I have for one! they are great, you dont burn your fingers and you can place it easily and press down as you draw a line across.
That's the same basic design of how I made a draft fuller a couple years ago. I needed it so I figured that was the quickest and simplest way to get it done. It worked but it wanted to twist more than I like due to the cutting edge not being centered below the tool. If it was a fuller I was planning on using on a daily basis I'd probably go the tradition way of making them with the cutting edge centered.
A PAIR OF TONGS FROM TODAY MADE FROM 15" OF 3/4 SQUARE A TONGS FOR HOLDING 5/8 SQUARE AND CAULKS AND WEDGES
Scroll tongs made from 1/2" x 1". Started with 11" and wound up cutting about 5" off as it was far too much material. Not really a farrier tool...well, I guess they could be used for hot fit tongs...yeah, they are hot fit tongs. This is the third pair of tongs I have ever made. Last pair was over 10 years ago. If this was supposed to be like riding a bicycle, I must have learned completely wrong to begin with. There are four really important lessons I learned last night making them and this morning, making the rivet and putting them together: 1. Unless you have a striker or a power hammer to draw out the reins, 1/2" x 1" is not the best stock for the job. 2. Just when you think you have plenty of material for the boss...you don't. 3. It is easier to buy rivets than to make them. 4. A gas forge is inadequate.
Tom,your stork has a severe mediolateral deformity. You can fix a medial extension or a dallmer clog.
Tom, I suppose this is a subliminal reference to my lack of understanding of the phrase "pull a bird"...if this was an effort to clarify or give me a hint to its meaning, it was in vain as I am still at a loss...but I am making another pair. I have them almost ready to punch and rivet. Maybe when they are done, you can put them on a dragon's body...or a cow.
Fixed a few minor issues and coated them with 50:50 boiled linseed oil and venetian turpentine. Each rein made from 8 inches of 3/8" x 1".
Gary, after trying to decide if my last adventure were dragons or cows, I asked a dragon and he told me that cow don't have teeth like this. Made to fit 3/8" round stock, from 3/8" x 1".
Now if you take apart a cigarette lighter and use the parts to make that thing into a fire breathing cow, er, um dragon . . .
